Drafting cotton garments and mackinaws by Simons Harry

Author:Simons, Harry. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Tailoring
Publisher: New York city, The Clothing designer company
Published: 1918-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

Diagram XV

Page Twenty-seven

Bar Vest

Diagram XVI

ON the bar vest here illustrated all allowances are made for double needle machine stitched seams. The regular sack coat or work coat sleeves can be used with this vest. Breast size, 36; waist, 32 inches, length, 26V 2 inches.

THE DRAFT

Draw line 1-2-3-4-5-6.

1 to 2 is % inch.

2 to 3 is %, of 19. 2 to 4 is y 2 of 19.

2 to 5 is the waist length, 17% inches. 5 to 6 is 3 inches.

Square out from points 1-2-3-4-5-6. 5 to 7 is % inch.

Draw line 1-7, then shape the centre back seam.

2 to 8 is 1/6 of 18 plus % inch.

8 to 9 is 1 inch.

Draw line 1-9.

4 to 10 is 1/3 of 18.

10 to 11 is 2V2 inches.

Square up from 11-12.

14 is half way between line 3 and 12.

14 to 15 is V2 inch.

Draw line 9-15.

41 to 16 is 2/3 of 18.

16 to 17 is l 3 /4 inches. Square up from 17 to 22.

18 is half way between 17-11.

19 is y 2 of 16 from 7. This is y 2 of the waist. 19 to 20 is iy 4 inches.

Shape the side seam 18-20-21. 41 to 27 is 18 inches.

27 to 28 is 2Y 2 inches.

28 to 29 is 1 inch.

Square up from 29 to 30 and down from 29 to 38.

22 to 23 is 1/6 of 18 plus V 2 inch.

23 to 24 is y 4 inch. Draw line 24-25-13. 25 to 26 is y 2 inch.

Shape the shoulder, 26-24, and arm hole, 26-18.

35 to 36 is y 2 of 16.

36 to 37 is 2 iiiches.

Shape the side seam, 18-37-40, making it V2 inch less than the back side seam.

23 to 32 is 1/6 of 18.

Square down from 32-33, which is 1/6 of 18.

33 to 34 is % inch.

38 to 39 is l 3 /4 inches.

Shape the neck, front and bottom, which completes the forepart.

The collar of this draft should be made similar to the military collar of the barber's coat.

Page Twenty-eight

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